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Diving in Myanmar (Burma) – the Mergui Archipelago

TRAVEL

Emma Ong - PADI MSDT

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Diving in Myanmar (Burma) – the Mergui Archipelago

WHERE ARE WE GOING?

Today we are diving in Myanmar, otherwise known as Burma, in the Mergui Archipelago.

WHY ARE WE DIVING IN MYANMAR?

The Mergui Archipelago is down south of Myanmar. It consists of over 800 islands with stunning coral reefs and remote beaches. The main appeal of diving in Myanmar is the ability to be alone on every dive site.

Diving in Myanmar is still a secret amongst travelers as it has only opened up to mass tourism in the last decade. That and the fact that there are limited resorts in the area means that it is a bit of a journey to get to this special place. This means you will have some amazing diving away from the crowds.

You can find rare macro life as well as the biggest pelagic fish such as Oceanic Manta rays and Whale sharks. You can regularly spot harlequin shrimps, seahorses, ghost pipefish, frogfish, and brightly colored nudibranchs.

Two Harlequin Shrimps taken while scuba diving in Myanmar — Two Harlequin Shrimps. Photo courtesy of Camille

HOW DO WE GET THERE?

The best departure point to get on a liveaboard for diving in Myanmar, is Ranong in Thailand. Ranong has an airport reachable 3 times a day from Bangkok that only takes about an hour.

Ranong is 300km north of Phuket (the closest international airport) about 4 hours taxi ride away (a bit longer by bus). Ranong is also 2 hours drives away (taxi or bus) from Chumphon (where you could take a boat to Koh Tao or hop on a train).

From Ranong, you will enter Myanmar via the southern port of entry, the town of Kawthaung.

WHICH DIVE SITES ARE MUST-SEE?

Western Rocky

Western Rocky (30m) is one of Burma’s most southern dive site and perhaps one of its most exciting in terms of the diving on offer. There are lovely colorful reefs, plenty of fish including amazing macro such as the harlequin shrimps, frogfish and seahorses, and also the chance to see the big fish; the whale shark! Western Rocky itself is a small island, with a dive passage right through its heart that just manages to be lit by daylight all the way through.

Black Rock

Black Rock (40m) is undoubtedly the best spot of the Andaman sea to see giant oceanic mantas. The rock itself is a small rock in the middle of Myanmar’s ocean. It provides a steep wall drop to over 100 meters, with rugged boulder formations, and bright soft coral. As the dive site is out in the ocean, the visibility is generally 30m+ with sightings of the on-going procession of barracuda, tuna, mackerel, rays, reef sharks, whale sharks, and eagle rays.

Honeycomb Moray Eel in Myanmar — Honeycomb Moray Eel. Photo courtesy of Camille

Seafan Forest

Seafan Forest (40m) as its name implies offers a wonderful forest of orange sea fan coral and is usually very fishy with plenty to find big and small. It is a pinnacle rising going down from 8 to 50 meters with sandy spots where leopard sharks like to lay. Good spot for whale sharks as well.

Square Rock

Square Rock (25m) a great spot to sea tigertail seahorses as well as ghost pipe fish and big stingrays.

North & South Twin

North and South Twin (35m) consists of large granite boulders covered in sea fans and soft corals. Another great dive site to see Manta rays as well as large schools of fish (barracudas, batfish, etc).

TELL ME MORE

Diving in Myanmar around these 800 islands and countless pinnacles is best done by liveaboard. This is because the dive sites are far away from any city. There are a few dive operations that run from Ranong, with The Smiling Seahorse being a leading specialist in the area.

Underwater macro photo of a camouflaged shrimp in Myanmar — Well camouflaged shrimp. Photo courtesy of Camille

DO I NEED ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT?

A surface marker (SMB) and a dive computer are compulsory for your safety. This is due to the strong currents that can take you quite far away from the dive site. But rest assured a rib (small rubber boat) will pick you up at the end of the dive!

A dive computer is important as most of the dive sites are deep dives, and doing 4 dives a day will see you on the higher end of nitrogen levels.

A torch is needed for night dives but also great to search for little critters in every crack.

A hook is not necessary but can be nice if you want to hook yourself in the current on top of pinnacles to look at the fish hunt.

While you should bring all of this if you have the items, your dive boat should also be able to provide all this for your trip.

(Editor’s note: From my experience, I recommend a reef hook for the strong currents here. Fun, but strong! Check out the currents in this video I shot while diving in Myanmar.)

A video of diving in Myanmar shot and edited by Down to Scuba’s editor.

WHAT LEVEL CERTIFICATION SHOULD I BE?

You must be an advanced diver at a minimum (or you can take the course on the liveaboard – just make sure you let the dive operation know prior) as there are deep dives and night dives every day.

WHAT ARE THE CONDITIONS?

Temperature is usually around 27°C all year long. Check our wetsuit temperature guide to figure out the best wetsuit for diving in Myanmar.

Visibility varies greatly from one week to the next and is unpredictable from 10 meters to 40 meters depending on the day and dive site.

The season for diving in Myanmar is from the end of October to mid May.

May to October is the monsoon season with rain, wind, waves making dive trips impossible. Everything is closed this time of the year.

Currents are quite a constant in Myanmar as we have tidal current with water going up and down every 6 hours.

HOW MUCH WILL I SPEND?

Cruises start at 43,000 THB for 6 days / 5 nights onboard which is good value when you compare it to what it would cost for hotel nights, 4 meals a day, free flow of drinks, and 4 dives a day.

Myanmar also has some visa and visit permits fees starting at 200 USD per person. Here you are paying for exclusivity and in my opinion it is worth it to be alone on the dive sites. ☺

WHAT TYPE OF ACCOMMODATION IS AVAILABLE?

Liveaboard is the way to go for comfort and accessibility to the dive sites. But little by little a few luxury resorts are also settling down in the Mergui Archipelago with some offering local dive sites.

DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE

Diving is fantastic!

The first cruise I took here I saw so many new species I had never seen before and now even after 8 years I still see new fish, shrimps, shells, and nudibranchs on a regular basis.

WHAT DO WE DO ON SURFACE INTERVALS?

When diving in Myanmar from a liveaboard, there will be time to visit a few beaches from the boat. These postcard beaches are remote and dreamlike with virgin white sand and crystal blue waters. There is also the opportunity to visit (and dive) in an extinct volcano!

Why is Decompression Sickness Called the Bends?

DIVE

DTS Contributor

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Why is Decompression Sickness Called the Bends?

Many people hear the term ‘the bends’ but don’t know exactly what it is. I had heard of the term well before my first scuba dive but did not know that it was the same as decompression sickness. As a dive instructor, I explain it to my students on a weekly basis. Today, I will explain it in writing. And what better album to listen to than Radiohead’s ‘The Bends’. But, why is decompression sickness called the bends and where did the term originate from? Well, let’s go back in history a little bit.

Read More: What is Decompression Sickness?

Why is Decompression Sickness Called the Bends?

In fact, ‘the bends’, is used to describe a common sign of Decompression Sickness (DCS). It refers to joint immobility and pain caused by gas bubbles forming in the blood and body tissues. These bubbles often accumulate in joints (such as the elbows and knees) and hinder mobility, which causes a bend in the joint and a bent appearance.

Dissolved gases coming out of solution is what causes decompression sickness. This is either due to rapid ascents or not enough decompression time. This gas can cause bubbles to form in your blood and body tissues.

These bubbles can wreak havoc in your system. It is specifically around the joints where arteries and veins restrict and wrap around a lot of corners. This is how these gas bubbles cause a restriction in the movement of the associated joints. Joints then appear and remain ‘bent’ and hard to move for the victim. This is what happens when you get ‘the bends’.

Find out what divers should do for their own safety to avoid decompression sickness.

Untreated Decompression Sickness can have devastating, long-lasting effects depending on its severity. Even under suspicion or with mild cases it is important to get decompression sickness treatment as fast as possible.

When Was the Term ‘The Bends’ First Used

It is difficult to establish exactly when the term was first used. The term describes signs of decompression sickness. This means it had to develop around a time where decompression sickness was common and known.

The term is found in medical journals from around the time DCS was first discovered and recorded.

DCS can occur in freedivers or in people at altitude, but most commonly occurs after prolonged inhalation of compressed gases.

Some of the earliest work conducted under compressed air on a large scale was the Brooklyn bridge in 1871. To dig the foundations, workers were lowered to the river bed in a ‘bell-shaped caisson of iron’, which is essentially a diving bell. These guys are known as sandhogs, digging many of the underground tunnels and foundations of New York City.

At the end of their working days, these poor workers were pulled up and returned to atmospheric pressure without any form of decompression. As a result of this, they often got decompression sickness and their joints were ‘bent’ out of shape. This is what led to the start of on-going research of DCS.

What is the Bends Scuba Diving?

On earth we are all are saturated with 1 bar of air. Air consists of 21% Oxygen and 79% Nitrogen. The only way we can dissolve additional air into our body is by breathing compressed gas or spending prolonged time in higher pressure air environments.

Breathing higher pressures of air will result in our blood and tissues absorbing more air over time. This stops once the dissolved gases and surrounding gases reach equilibrium.

At 20 meters underwater we are already at 2 bar of pressure. However, it does not actually harm us to fully saturate to 2 bar of air. Gases leaving our blood and tissues too rapidly has the potential to harm us.

Whenever we lower surrounding pressure gas diffuses out of our body. This process has limits before it becomes harmful to us. Imagine a can of soft drink opened to carbonate the syrup inside. This works because the little carbon dioxide trapped in the can is at more than 1 bar of pressure and dissolves into the syrup. We rapidly release the pressure by opening the can, essentially giving the drink decompression sickness.

Long term effects of decompression sickness depend on the severity of the case. Bubbles in our blood vessels can damage their sensitive inner lining causing other material to stick to the insides of arteries and veins. Permanent nerve damage and brain damage can also occur in severe cases.

What Happens When You Get the Bends

The most prominent symptoms of decompression sickness (the bends) includes;

Local joint pain (mainly in shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles)
Weakness in the arms and legs
Headache
Dizziness
Trouble thinking clearly
Numbness & tingling
Extreme fatigue

How to Prevent the Bends

Contrary to popular belief it is actually very easy to avoid decompression sickness. At least within the realm of recreational diving. Safe diving practices teach new divers how to avoid decompression sickness. A large portion of diver training is dedicated to learning about potential risks.

Ascending slowly, staying within No-Decompression limits as well as performing safety stops after every dive are some of the main ways to prevent the bends. Staying in good physical health and well hydrated as well as respecting personal limits are all habitual choices for a conservative diver.

Learn how scuba divers go up and down safely.

New divers are not necessarily at more risk. However, they do tend to be more nervous and conscious of the dangers associated with scuba diving. Because of this, they might be more susceptible to performing a rapid ascent in case of not feeling comfortable. Anxiety can trigger a fight or flight response. New divers will learn how to ascend in scuba diving safely and properly.

Why is decompression sickness called the bends? We have now seen that ‘the bends’ is a slang term that was first used to describe a severe sign of decompression sickness. The immobility and pain caused by gas bubbles in the blood and body tissues.

Wetsuit Temperature Guide SCUBA, Snorkel & More

EQUIPMENT

DTS Contributor

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Wetsuit Temperature Guide SCUBA, Snorkel & More

Getting into the water and thinking of using a wetsuit? Find the best-suited wetsuit with our handy wetsuit temperature guide for SCUBA diving, snorkeling, freediving, surfing and more!

Want to know more about wetsuits, what they are made from, and how they work?

Wetsuit Temperature Guide Scuba & Snorkeling

It is very important to find the correct exposure protection for the water temperature. You don’t want to overheat in a thick wetsuit in tropical waters, and you also don’t want to freeze or risk hypothermia in a thin wetsuit in chilly temperatures.

Infographic on wetsuit temperature guide scuba, snorkel, surf & more

Wetsuit Thickness Guide

So what do the numbers on a wetsuit actually mean? They indicate the thickness of the wetsuit’s material.

This is typically measured in millimeters. The higher the number, the thicker the wetsuit is. The thicker a wetsuit is, the warmer it will be!

The most common wetsuit thicknesses will be 3mm, 5mm, and 7mm.

You can also get wetsuits that have two numbers to indicate their thickness. For example, a wetsuit may be 3/2mm. This means the torso of the wetsuit will be 3mm thick, and the arms and legs of the wetsuit will be 2mm.

These types of wetsuits allow more flexibility and movement in the joints of the arms and legs, which is important when surfing or kicking with fins, while keeping the chest area nice and warm.

Water Temperatures above 30°C / 86°F

In these tropical temperatures, you can go without a wetsuit, and wear just your swimwear! This gives you a lot of flexibility and freedom in the water.

However, if you plan on being in the water for a while, then you should think about protection from the harmful UV sun rays. Rash guards or skin-suits are perfect for this. They are thin and will not restrict your movements in the water.

Some rash guards can give you added warmth if you prefer. And they also provide extra protection from stings or nicks from marine life, coral, and rocks.

Water Temperatures 25 – 29°C / 77 – 84°F

These are pleasant temperatures for a 3mm wetsuit, full-body, or shorty wetsuit. A 3mm wetsuit is thin enough to give you full flexibility, and also provide warmth in the water. A 3mm wetsuit is also versatile for both warm temperatures and cooler temperatures when layered with a wetsuit vest or hood.

Tip: It is also very easy to pack a 3mm wetsuit for an up-coming diving trip!

Water Temperatures 20 – 24°C / 68 – 75°F

Now the water is getting a bit more chilly. This is when you will definitely feel and notice the cold temperature. While 20°C (68°F) is nice on-land, in the water you will lose body heat up to 25% faster.

Try a 5mm full-body wetsuit. This will give you warmth especially around the chest and lower back. If you are sensitive to the cold, or you plan on being in the water for a long time, then you can add diving gloves, booties, and a hood. These will make a big difference as they are covering up your extremities which are highly sensitive to the cold.

Water Temperatures 15 – 19°C / 59 – 67°F

Brrrr…. Go with a 7mm wetsuit in these temperatures. You will lose body heat quickly so definitely protect those extremities.

Water Temperatures 10 – 15°C / 50 – 59°F

In these cold temperatures, get warmer and layer your 7mm wetsuit with a 5mm vest. Protect the chest area and go as thick as possible here. Go the whole mile and protect your head, hands, and feet.

Alternatively, you can opt for a semi-dry wetsuit with seals around the neck, wrists, and ankles. These seals are designed to minimize water from flushing in and out of your wetsuit. This will keep you warmer.

Water Temperatures Below 10°C / 50°F

Drysuit time! This is definitely cold. It’s time to get fitted for a personalized drysuit. This will stop ice-cold water from getting in and you can enjoy your dive for longer!

The Takeaway

Everyone’s comfort level with water temperatures will differ. Some people may feel the cold quicker, and some people feel warmer for longer. However, using this wetsuit temperature guide for scuba diving and snorkeling can give you a starting point when deciding what thickness wetsuit is perfect in those conditions.

Can you Snorkel while Pregnant

SNORKEL + FREEDIVE

DTS Contributor

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Being pregnant can be a wonderful thing; you are creating life, your skin takes on that radiant glow, yadda yadda. But being pregnant also means you miss out on some fun things such as, eating cheese and sushi, drinking wine, and activities such as scuba diving. But what about snorkeling? Can you snorkel while pregnant and are there any risks involved?

How does a snorkel work?

Can you Snorkel while Pregnant

Yes, you can snorkel while pregnant as this activity does not require breathing any compressed gases. In fact, snorkeling is a great way to relax and keep fit during your pregnancy without over-exerting your body.

Snorkeling only requires a mask and a snorkel to breathe in the air on the surface. And that air is safe for pregnant women to breathe.

It is advised, however, to avoid scuba diving while pregnant due to limited research into breathing compressed gases and the effects it may have on a fetus.

Read about the differences between snorkeling and scuba diving.

Tips for Snorkeling while Pregnant

Don’t Over-Exert Yourself

Always snorkel in a safe zone with no strong currents. You will want to avoid over-exerting yourself or using too much energy.

Snorkel with a Buddy

You should always snorkel with a buddy or a friend. If your buddy is diving while you are snorkeling, then make sure that you stay close to the shore or the boat. Ensure that there is a guide in the water or on the boat to keep an eye on you.

Always Tell Someone

If you are snorkeling alone (we do not recommend this even if you are a confident snorkeler) then always tell someone else where you are going to snorkel. Weather conditions can change dramatically and you do not want to get caught at sea in bad weather.

Protect your Skin

Wear a rashguard to protect your belly and your skin. UV rays are extremely strong and it’s been found that your skin is more sensitive during pregnancy. You skin will be more prone to UV damage and sunburn, which can increase the risk of skin cancer.

Find out what women wear under a rashguard, and how it can protect your skin while snorkeling.

Research your Sunscreen

Be aware of the ingredients in the sunscreen that you are using. Protecting your skin is important but some sunscreens can have harmful chemicals in them that can be absorbed into the skin and your bloodstream. Talk to a dermatologist about your skincare if you are concerned about this.

Read More: Best Reef-Safe Sunscreens for You and the Ocean!

Hydrate Often

Make sure you are hydrating with water and electrolytes often. Dehydration is a common risk for all snorkelers who are in the hot sun as you are not aware that you are sweating while in the water. It is especially risky for pregnant women as severe dehydration can lead to low levels of amniotic fluid, which could influence your baby’s development.

Happy snorkeling and congratulations!

In conclusion, snorkeling is safe for pregnant women. However, be aware of your growing limitations as your pregnancy progresses and always err on the side of caution. You don’t need to miss out on the wonderful experiences of the underwater world while pregnant if you consider the tips above!

Q&A with an UW Photographer

Emma Ong - PADI MSDT

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Today we chat with Paddy (UK), a divemaster who found a passion for (underwater) UW photography.

What is your diving history?

I did my open water course in 2007 in Fiji when I was 18 but I have wanted to scuba dive since I was 13 and working part-time in an aquarium shop. I started working as a diver in 2011 as a divemaster then made the switch over to primarily video and photography work in 2013.

What equipment setup do you use for UW photography?

For UW photography, my most recent camera is the Nikon D850 with Subal housing and a pair of Inon 330’s for my strobes. As for lenses I love my 8-15mm fisheye for the big stuff and my 60mm for black water shooting. I have just gotten a 105mm for everyday macro but I am still waiting for the next trip to use it properly.

Paddy the uw photographer — Paddy the UW photographer. Photo courtesy of Paddy

Where did you learn how to take digital underwater photos?

I have always had an interest with UW photography and bought a cheap underwater camera with housing almost as soon as I finished my open water course.

On Koh Tao in Thailand, the first tips and help I ever got was from Sairee Cottage dive shop owner Trevor Emerson. In 2013 I took an underwater videography course with Ace Marine Images with Video Instructor and close friend, Andy Keeler. Eventually, I took a professional UW photography course with Alex Tyrrell at Dive4Photos. All were amazing experiences in their own rights and I became close friends with all of them.

Who is your photography mentor and why?

I would have to say Alex Tyrrell has always been my UW photography mentor since we first met and still is to this day. He is still a fountain of knowledge years after I completed the course with him, and we recently met up for a Bahama shark diving trip earlier this year.

What is your favourite underwater subject?

This is a tough one. Sharks are exciting to see and you get that little adrenaline buzz when they swim up close. Plus everyone loves a decent photo of a shark.

On the other hand, some of my favourite photos are of nudibranchs. I love the challenge of finding the tiny subjects, especially if no one else at the dive shop has seen it before.

I am also going to cheat on this question because my favourite subjects are actually not completely underwater. They are SPLIT LEVEL photos!!! It is a massive challenge to get the subject even vaguely decent but when you pull it off, having half of it on the surface and half underwater, it works a treat!

Lemon Sharks under a dive boat - split shot photo, 1/2 underwater, 1/2 on the surface — Curious lemon sharks in Florida. Photo courtesy of Paddy

Do you prefer natural lighting or artificial?

For uw photography, I would choose artificial lighting every time. You will get more control over the whole image and you can get so much more creative with it. I did not use any artificial lighting for years when I started out and when I was a videographer but now I would not go back (apart from on my last trip when my TTL cables failed)!

Enjoying this Q&A? Read more stories and interviews with divers at Down to Scuba.

Do you prefer macro or wide angle photography?

As mentioned, I prefer split level photography with a wide-angle as a favourite type of underwater photography but in all honesty, it changes day to day depending on what is available to me.

The dive site and weather conditions are always the main deciding factors followed quickly by what lens I can afford. This is not a cheap lifestyle.

How do you take a good photo of a shark?

A hammerhead shark approaching in The Bahamas - Amazing UW photography — Close up of a hammerhead shark in The Bahamas. Photo courtesy of Paddy

Shark photography is so much fun but you certainly need to pay a lot of attention to your surroundings and make sure that they are not getting agitated or aggressive in anyway.

For a start, I would suggest going with a company with a good reputation for shark dives like Neal Watson’s dive charters in Bimini, Florida. They will allow you to get up close to the sharks in a way that is safe for you and the sharks. The more calm and relaxed you are, then the better the photos and the better experience you will have.

A good idea for any dive in a new area is to read up about what kind of marine life (or what species of sharks) you are likely to encounter so that you can be prepared with the right type of lens and settings.

What is a blackwater dive?

Blackwater diving is a night dive in very deep water (60m and deeper is best). You will set up a buoy or float at the surface with a line that goes down to a very bright light or a set of lights at around 30m.

You will drift with the light set up for the entire dive. Drifting over deep water with the bright light will draw up juvenile fish and all kinds of strange creatures that you would never see during the day. You will also see some marine life that you do see during the day but are far more friendly in the night (this squid photo is from the end of a night dive).

A macro close up of a squid's eye during a blackwater dive with UW photography — Macro shot of a squid during a blackwater dive. Photo courtesy of Paddy

Blackwater diving is a very different style of diving and photography. It does take a bit of patience to get used to but once you settle into it you will see and photograph some amazing things. Three spots worth thinking about for black water diving are Hawaii, Anilao in the Philippines and West Palm Beach in Florida, USA.

Which is the photo you are most proud of?

Ahh easy question. Split level whale shark under the dive boat.

A split level photo of a whale shark under a dive boat. — Paddy’s magnum opus from Koh Tao. Photo courtesy of Paddy

What advice would you give to budding and new UW photographers?

Keep shooting as much as possible. The only regrets I have are the dives I missed because I was feeling lazy. I will never forget the day I missed out on two guitar sharks at Southwest Pinnacle on Koh Tao, just because I was hoping my new strobes would arrive that day.

Also, don’t limit yourself to underwater even if that is the only area of photography you want to work in. The more you play with the camera the more it all becomes intuitive. You will be able to react quicker and get those settings dialed in on-time. Let’s say a dive is about an hour-long on average so that is not a lot of time to practice. Whereas you can sit in your garden all afternoon and snap away at your own pace.

Where are some of the places you have dived before?

The ones that stick out the most are Koh Tao in Thailand as I worked there for so long.

Galapagos was incredible and I highly recommend going out there. However, you should try to find some volunteer work as it gets you a massive discount on the diving. In the Galapagos, I worked at a reforestation project Monday to Friday then went diving on the weekends.

I have also been diving in Burma/Myanmar, Fiji, and Australia. This year I went on a diving trip to The Bahamas, and Florida in the United States.

Where is most favourite place to dive?

I know I have been incredibly lucky with how much I have traveled and all the amazing places I have dived. But honestly, Chumphon Pinnacle in Koh Tao has such a special place in my heart. I have had so many amazing dives there (and some utter rubbish ones in monsoon) with a lot of good memories with a lot of good friends there.

uw photography - a lemon shark approaching — A curious lemon shark ready for its close up in Florida. Photo courtesy of Paddy

What was your most extreme/scariest dive?

Ha ha ha!!!! Cave of Death. I am not giving any more details as I don’t want anyone underskilled trying to find this dive site but WOW.

As I can’t really talk about that dive, I would have to say a close runner up is a night dive in Myanmar. We went on a night dive in a cave with our lights switched off, using just the bioluminescence to guide us.

Also on the list is a high-speed drift dive in Florida, with lemon and bull sharks bumping into us. All three of those dives could have used a brown wetsuit but I loved every second of them!

What is next on your diving ‘bucket list’?

Right now just diving anywhere other than in England seems to be a lifetime away due to the current COVID-19 situation.

I haven’t really dived with whales or dolphins (at least not with a camera). Thresher, mako, blue and great white sharks are top of the list but I am also looking forward to nerding it out in the Philippines with some blackwater diving. So to cut a long answer short ANYTHING UNDERWATER!!!!

Check out more of Paddy’s UW photography at Peach Snaps Photography.

Enjoying this Q&A? Read more stories and interviews with divers at Down to Scuba.